First American Woman to Summit all 14 World’s 8,000m Peaks
Mountaineering is often overlooked in women’s sports due to its daring nature. However, this did not deter Tracee Metcalfe, who became the first American woman to conquer all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks.
The Mountains
The world’s 14 peaks over 8,000 meters include:
Mt. Everest (8,849m) on the Nepal-Tibet border, which Tracee Metcalfe summited in May 2016.
Akalu (8,485m), one of the most challenging climbs, conquered in May 2019.
Cho Oyu (8,188m), the sixth highest summited in September 2018.
Ama Dablam (6,812m) the shortest of the Himalayan peaks she climbed reached in November 2017.
Tracee has also summited Kangchenjunga, Gasherbrum, Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Dhaulagri, Lhotse, Annapurna, K2 and most recently Shishapangma.
Attempts at the Record
Unlike other competitive sports, mountaineering is often pursued for the sheer pleasure of the climb, though climbers do aim to achieve points for the heights they conquer. In 2023, American mountaineers Gina Rzucidlo and Anna Gutu attempted to become the first American woman to summit all 14 of the world’s 8000-meter peaks. Tragically their quest ended in disaster when they, along with their guides perished in an avalanche.
Other Notable Climbers
Despite the daring nature of the sport, many women have risen to the challenge and completed all 14 summits. Norwegian climber Kristin Harila holds the record for the fastest ascent, completing the expedition in just 92 days between 2022 and 2023. Other notable women include Edurne Pasaban, the first woman to summit all 14 peaks in 2010; Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, who in 2011 became the first woman to do so without the supplementary oxygen and Adriana Brownlee, the youngest to conquer all 14 8,000-meter peaks.
Career Life
In addition to her mountaineering achievements, Tracee Metcalfe is a physician in Colorado and serves as an expedition doctor. She began climbing at the age of 35 purely for enjoyment. She did not initially set out to break records, but was drawn to the challenge and enjoyment of climbing. Her passion for the sport grew over time. Today, at age 50, she set a world record as the first American woman to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks.
Incredible Achievement
This accomplishment was not initially her goal, but rather a surprising outcome of Tracee’s love for climbing. Now 50, her journey through these challenging ascents has cemented her place in mountaineering history.
